Cuts That Matter

Pressure on consumers’ purses means caterers need to focus on well sourced, value for money meat options on their menus. Sheila Eggleston reports.

Price, provenance and presentation are equally important to ensure consumers continue to eat out of home in what seems like a never ending economic downturn.

Since 2008 it has become a mindset for all. According to the latest Meat Market Insight report published by EBLEX, the latest data on the eating out of home (OOH) market makes uncomfortable reading for the foodservice sector, which doesn’t see an imminent economic recovery.

It says total OOH sales in 2009 were 3.7% down on the previous year, which wiped £2bn off the value of the market. The number of eating out occasions also fell last year – 3.5% – which it says adds up to 200 million fewer meals served. In the pub sector sales were down 5.4% with 4.5% fewer customer transactions in 2009 than in 2008, with independent operators suffering most. Pub groups saw sales increase by 4.3%, while independents lost 17% of sales year on year.

With menus being scrutinised more than ever, offering value for money and being cost effective with the right cuts makes sense and bodies such as EBLEX and BPEX are keen to get that message across to caterers. EBLEX foodservice project manager Hugh Judd says: “Customers generally tend to see meat as the hero of the plate and, as the centre plate item is the one that customers tend to remember, it’s important not to compromise on quality. If you are looking to reduce costs, it is far better to alter accompaniments or choose cheaper cuts from the same quality carcase.

“When it comes to menu presentation, assurance and provenance remain key points of interest for customers. Menus that include information on sourcing and details about food that has been produced to high standards of welfare continue to positively influence sales.”

Judd says more chefs are looking at using cheaper and less well known cuts, particularly those suited to slow cooking or where marinades can be used effectively. Much of the NPD work being pioneered by EBLEX is focused on this area, he adds.

“Carcase balance is even more critical when every penny counts and cuts are being more imaginatively used, such as those from the shin, belly, flank and neck,” he says.

According to Judd, lamb has been expensive in the first half of the year but, with plenty around during the summer and autumn, he believes prices will drop. Lamb is a real hit with diners, particularly when served on the carvery, he says. “While newer cuts are becoming popular, pushing up demand and consequently prices, chefs can get great value from more traditional cuts such as whole trimmed shoulders and lamb rumps. The same applies to beef, in particular sirloin and fillets now represent better value as many chefs have been enticed by newer cuts,” he adds.

There are 12 steaks in the alternative Quality Standard steak range from EBLEX that offer added value and have become popular during the credit crunch. Burgers, with new flavours and styles, have also taken off in the last year.

Brakes however thinks there is a change in the marketplace, with a swing towards premium products such as aged beef, which is a process that makes the meat more tender. Marketing manager Sam Douglas says its one of the really big things on pub, restaurant and hotel menus, and its recently launched range of British 21 day aged beef under its Birchstead Mature brand was selling well.

“It is interesting to see that demand for this type of premium product is on the up. A year ago most businesses were looking for cheaper meat products. This could be seen as an encouraging sign that the hospitality industry is starting to turn a corner, with more people returning to pubs and restaurants and demanding quality meals.

“We’ve also noticed that many pubs and restaurants have been buying whole primal meat products and cutting their own steaks rather than pre-cut steaks. This is a really good recession buster. A whole strip loin is cheaper, as well as more versatile. For example, you could cut half into steaks and then roast the other half for your Sunday carvery.”

Further research by market analyst Crest shows that pork is the most consumed protein out of the home, mainly because of its versatility – from bacon and sausages for breakfast to steaks for dinner. But BPEX says catering butchers recognise that chefs want more variety. This includes more from the main primals and areas of the animal that were previously exported such as the head, cheeks and trotters.

Belly pork continues to be a menu favourite, which doesn’t surprise BPEX foodservice sector manager Tony Goodger. “Belly pork has gone up a bit in price but it is still good value for money in comparison to other cuts. People aren’t comfortable cooking it at home and there’s more innovation with this cut at the white linen end of the market.”

On the downside, Goodger predicts the price of all protein will go up – not just pork, primarily because the cost of feeding animals is dependent on the price of wheat and soya. “Because they are commodities on the market, we know how they are doing and both wheat and soya are expected to continue to rise in price,” he explains. He adds that other factors affecting price is the exchange rate and demand at certain times of the year, for example during the summer barbecue season.

Ironically the price of pork tends to come down at Christmas, says Goodger, because of the breeding cycle of pigs. Larger litters in the spring means they have reached maturity by the time Christmas comes around so more pigs come to market, therefore he is working on a project to promote pork for Christmas menus, which will be available in August.

Interestingly more pig farmers are working with caterers and catering butchers to improve sourcing, and more chefs are doing their own butchering, he says. The head is also being used more. This includes cheeks, ears and more traditional food such as brawn made from the whole of the head.

He adds that there are plenty of farmers and butchers keen to work with pubs directly. “Don’t be afraid to talk to your butcher about developing cuts – they all have development chefs of their own now who can help.”

Meat awareness days for chefs and catering butchers has been an inspirational tactic, giving them first hand experience of quality assured produce and what they can do with it. In June two catering butchers took chefs and caterers to see prime quality produce. Aubrey Allen took a group to the West Country to see prime English lamb, while Nigel Frederick’s took chefs to Suffolk to see home reared prime pork.

Goodger says this helps because, with the increased interest in where food comes from and how it is farmed, he expects to see menus carrying more information. In terms of pork he believes the provenance of the meat and an explanation of how the animal is reared should be given. For example, outdoor reared or free range pork from Suffolk.

“You can put things on menus without making them too long,” he explains. “Some pubs and restaurants have taken to putting up posters or blackboards that detail the suppliers. Some have produced maps on the reverse of their menus to showcase them, or they have put them on their website.”

Another welcome addition is the Red Tractor mark, which has been a phenomenal success for food assurance signifying high standards across the board from food safety to animal welfare. Consumers are used to seeing it in the retail sector, so using it on menus is a plus factor, he adds.

A further good reason for having this endorsement is the proposed amendment to food labelling laws to clarify the issue about country of origin, which is going forward for EU approval. The amendment states that the country of origin must be named on all meat, poultry, dairy produce, fresh fruit and vegetables, and meat, poultry and fish used as ingredients in processed food.

But looking ahead, what will be the next belly? Goodger says: “Our view is that belly pork will continue to grow but will be presented in different formats from the block and the rolled roast medallion to belly rashers and horseshoe shaped tenderons.” He also believes ham hocks are still a menu must have – “but what will happen is that people will get fed up with it as a terrine and do a hock in its own right and braise it”.

Pork rump steaks are another good addition to menus as they can be used for a number of dishes – served whole, as kebabs and cut into strips for stir fries, he adds.

“Many chefs are also now exploring different cooking methods so we think there will be more kitchen cured pork and kitchen smoked pork dishes on the menu.”

Goodger also predicts wild boar is one to watch. “We have a big wild boar problem in this country. In the Forest of Dean there are 8,000-10,000 running free – the same in the New Forest. Ultimately they will be culled and then what do you do with them? We want to see if it is as good as a steak or a joint. No one has done this before.”

This year is going to be one of research by BPEX. For example, it is supporting research at Thames Valley University, which is investigating the best way to reduce shrinkage in roasting joints. Taking a 3kg shoulder of pork, it will look at how to minimise the shrinkage, maximise the yield and the best oven for roasting it, which will help caterers make better decisions when putting together menus.

Next year BPEX is looking at launching a publication about combining pork with popular sports such as cycling, swimming, etc. “We are linking it with 12 Olympic sports bodies, and we will have a nutritionist and dietician working with them on pork recipes suitable for people who take part in these sports,” says Goodger. “We hope caterers will run with those ideas on their menus, and have Olympic themed menus.

“By giving a year’s lead time, those involved in Olympic feeding will have the recipes early on. People talk about the legacy of the Olympics and that will be more people taking up more sport, and caterers having to offer healthier food.”

Words Sheila Eggleston

This article originally appeared in Eat Out magazine www.eatoutmagazine.co.uk

« Back to previous page