Matter Of Choice

Pressure on consumer purse strings means caterers need to be savvier about menus, focusing on well sourced, value for money meat options. Sheila Eggleston reports.

Price, provenance and presentation are equally important to ensure consumers continue to eat out of home in what seems like a never ending economic downturn, which since 2008 has become a mindset for all.

According to the latest Meat Market Insight report published by EBLEX, the latest market data on the eating out of home (OOH) market makes uncomfortable reading for the foodservice sector, which doesn’t see an imminent economic recovery.

It says total OOH sales in 2009 were 3.7% down on the previous year, which wiped £2bn off the value of the market. The number of eating out occasions also fell last year – 3.5% – which it says adds up to 200 million fewer meals served.

With menus being scrutinised more than ever, offering value for money and being cost effective with the right cuts makes sense and bodies such as EBLEX are keen to get that message across to caterers. Foodservice project manager Hugh Judd says: “Customers generally tend to see meat as the hero of the plate and, as the centre plate item is the one that customers tend to remember, it’s important not to compromise on quality. If you are looking to reduce costs, it is far better to alter accompaniments or choose cheaper cuts from the same quality carcase.

“When it comes to menu presentation, assurance and provenance remain key points of interest for customers. Menus that include information on sourcing and details about food that has been produced to high standards of welfare continue to positively influence sales.”

Judd says more chefs are looking at using cheaper and less well known cuts, particularly those suited to slow cooking or where marinades can be used effectively. Much of the NPD work being pioneered by EBLEX is focused on this area, he adds.

“Carcase balance is even more critical when every penny counts and cuts are being more imaginatively used, such as those from the shin, belly, flank and neck,” he says. Brakes marketing manager Sam Douglas echoes this view. “Slow roasting joints, such as beef brisket and lamb shoulder have been making a comeback.

“These cuts require a bit more imagination and patience from the chef but can still deliver some great meals. The general rule of thumb is to cook the meat long and slow.”

According to Judd, lamb has been expensive in the first half of the year but, with plenty around during the summer and autumn, he believes prices will start to drop. “While newer cuts are becoming more popular, pushing up demand and consequently prices, chefs can get great value from traditional cuts such as whole trimmed shoulders and lamb rumps.

“The same applies to beef. Sirloin and fillets in particular now represent better value as many chefs have been enticed by newer cuts,” he adds.

There are 12 steaks in the alternative Quality Standard steak range from EBLEX that offer added value and have become popular during the credit crunch. Burgers, with new flavours and styles, have also taken off in the last year.

Elior UK’s strategic development chef Mark Crowe says provenance and traceability of meat is an important issue among its hospitality and fine dining customers, which is why the EBLEX quality standard mark is important.

“Elior is one of a few contract caterers to hold this mark for English beef and lamb, the only UK assurance scheme to include an eating quality requirement,” he explains.

Popular meat dishes on Elior’s menus, he says, include ones using Midshires rose veal. “Midshires rose veal was developed to utilise the Holstein bull calf, a by product of the dairy industry, with up to two thirds of them traditionally slaughtered at birth.

Through the use of a natural feed, the veal is low in fat and naturally rich in omega 3, creating a new era of British veal for the consumer.

“It allows the use of a sustainable meat product that would otherwise be disregarded. It is an exciting development and one that I expect to become a popular addition to menus.

Another growth area, says EBLEX, is halal meat, especially in workplace catering and throughout the public sector. In other OOH sectors, it says demand is more geographically based with catering butchers in areas with a high concentration of Muslim consumers reporting increased demand. EBLEX has produced a DVD for those interested in supplying halal products, which is free on request.

Research by market analyst Crest shows that pork is the most consumed protein out of the home, mainly because of its versatility – from bacon and sausages at breakfast to steaks for dinner. But BPEX says catering butchers recognise that chefs want a wider variety of pork cuts. This includes more from the main primals and areas of the animal that were previously exported such as the head, cheeks and trotters.

Belly pork continues to be a menu favourite, which doesn’t surprise BPEX foodservice sector manager Tony Goodger. “Belly pork has gone up a bit in price but it’s still good value for money in comparison to other cuts. People aren’t comfortable cooking it at home and there’s more innovation with this cut at the white linen end of the market.”

But what will be the next belly? Goodger says: “Our view is that belly will continue to grow but will be presented in different formats from the block and the rolled roast medallion to belly rashers and horseshoe shaped tenderons. Besides belly we expect to see more pork and ham hocks on menus in the white linen sector and ready meals for foodservice, and pork rump steaks across the whole sector.

“Many chefs are now exploring different cooking methods so we think there will be more kitchen cured pork and kitchen smoked pork dishes on the menu.” Goodger predicts the price of all protein will go up not just pork, primarily because the cost of feeding pigs is dependent on the price of wheat and soya. “Because they are commodities on the market, we know how they are doing and both wheat and soya are expected to continue to rise in price.” Other factors affecting price is the exchange rate and demand at certain times of the year for example during the summer barbecue season.

Ironically the price tends to come down at Christmas, says Goodger, because of the breeding cycle of pigs. Larger litters in the spring means they have reached maturity by the time Christmas comes around so more pigs come to market, therefore he is working on a project to promote pork for Christmas menus, which will be available in August.

Goodger says the interest in where our food comes from and how it is farmed means he expects to see more menus carrying more information. In terms of pork he believes the meat’s provenance and an explanation of how the animal is reared should be given, such as outdoor reared or free range pork from Suffolk.

Suppliers such as Crown Foods, which specialises in products for the education sector includes a number under the British banner such as its British pork bake and British gluten free pork sausages.

Director Gayl Pickett explains: “We spend a lot of time developing products for the education sector and, with regard to our meat products, we only use lean and prime cuts so that a top taste is achieved.”

The Red Tractor mark has been a phenomenal success for food assurance and more caterers such as Pabulum and Charlton House have recently become license holders, joining Sodexo and BaxterStorey in using their accreditation as a valuable marketing tool.

Recently Thames Valley University (TVU) was the first catering college to become a Red Tractor member and Goodger says more applications from colleges are in the pipeline. “It gives college restaurants a cachet, and obviously they are trying to teach students about provenance and sourcing meat and they can link that into the Red Tractor scheme.”

A good reason for having this endorsement is the proposed amendment to food labelling laws to clarify the issue about country of origin, which is going forward for EU approval. This will give the scheme another big tick. The amendment states that the country of origin must be named on all meat, poultry, dairy produce, fresh fruit and vegetables, and meat, poultry and fish used as ingredients in processed food.

This year is going to be one of research by BPEX. For example, this summer TVU’s chef lecturer Michael Coaker will be investigating the best way to reduce shrinkage in roasting joints. It is aimed at the cost sector because its caterers are under pressure on budgets, says Goodger, and also those who want to measure the amount of power they are using.

Research on a 3kg shoulder of pork will look at how to minimise shrinkage, maximise yield and the best oven for roasting it. “Most equipment suppliers sell combination and convection ovens so it should be easy to source the right equipment,” says Goodger.

He says the development team at equipment supplier Angelo Po has been doing similar research on sausages. “The average sausage shrinks by about 15%; they have got it down to 11% in a combi oven with a bit of steam.”

With his forecaster’s hat on, Goodger reckons wild boar is one to watch. “We have a big wild boar problem in this country. In the Forest of Dean there are 8,000-10,000 of them running free – the same in the New Forest. Ultimately they will be culled and then what do you do with them? We want to see if it is as good as a steak or a joint. No one has done this before.”

He believes pork mince is an area for growth in the cost sector. “Not all regions will use it – certainly not where the audience primarily eats halal meat. But we are developing more pork menu ideas for schools, hospitals and care homes.”

Next year BPEX is looking at launching a publication about combining pork with popular sports. “We are linking it with 12 Olympic sports bodies, and we will have a nutritionist and dietician working with them on pork recipes suitable for people who take part in these sports. We hope contract caterers will run with those ideas, and have Olympic themed menus. By giving a year’s lead time, those involved in Olympic feeding will have the recipes early on.

“People talk about the legacy of the Olympics and that will be more people taking up more sport, and caterers will have to offer healthier food.”

Words Sheila Eggleston

This article originally appeared in Cost Sector Catering magazine www.costsectorcatering.co.uk

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